So, So Sheikh!

Me & Fazilah at 360

Before I was souking it, and now I'm sheikhing it.  I have seen a completely different image of Kuwait lately, with swanky restaurants, uber high end malls, beautiful villas and personal drivers.  The only word that comes to mind when I think of the experiences I've had the past few days is that it's just so chic (read: "sheek")!

A few nights ago we went to Hotel Missoni for a spectacular dinner over looking the gulf.  This place is beautifully designed with vibrant pops of color and the distinctive Missoni feel.  The best part was the bathrooms, with purple walls, gold fixtures and...wait for it...hot pink toilet paper!!! Dream come true!!!  Also went to a fantastic restaurant that I would highly recommend - Assaha.  This traditional stone Lebanese village makes you feel like you are back in the 16th century and the food is fabulous.

We luxuriously strolled through 360 mall and The Avenues Mall which was an overwhelming introduction to the Kuwait "mall culture".  So what is this "mall culture"?  It seems that most of Kuwait hangs out at the swank malls - there is a lot of live music, smoking, and drinking mixologist certified mocktails.   Kuwaitis get a monthly stipend for being Kuwaiti (reverse taxes?) so it comes as no surprise that the malls are madness and it’s a culture of extreme excess.  The malls are beautifully done, with Prada, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Burberry etc as well as boutique stores specific to the Middle East.  There is beautiful architecture everywhere you turn and palm trees line the store fronts.  The newest fashions in American and European stores are unchanged, uncensored, and literally flying off of the shelves.  Everyone wears the newest handbags and the most elaborate makeup. 

My take? I think this is a way that women can outwardly express their individuality and sense of style in an environment where external decorum has to have a layer of conformity.  Thick, shaped eyebrows (very Cleopatra-esque), khol rimmed eyes, and vibrant colored eye shadows dominate.  The musky scent of oudh overwhelms the senses and sometimes you'll catch a glimpse of a fleeting red sole under the careful flutter of the black abaya.  I always wondered if the scene from Sex & the City 2 was true, where under the traditional robes the group of women bare the newest collection from the catwalks of London, Paris & Milan.  I can't comment on that but what I can say is that there were gaggles of women at the hotel going to weddings that I met in the elevator, and I know that they were dressed to the nines under their black robes.  I know this because you could see vibrant colored trains flowing under their robes and the outline of couture cut dresses.

It is such an absolute juxtaposition of opulence in some places and shoddiness in other areas.  My mind is still trying to make sense of it.  Can you live a humble, pious life while buying the whole season of the new Fendi collection? Can you justify spending money on the multitudes of cranes and development around the city when key areas of your infrastructure are underdeveloped?  Questions to ponder...

Anyways, on a lighter note, I wasn't complaining when my friend's driver picked us up and drove us around the town.  When in Rome Kuwait, you know what to do!