2 Locals + 2 Gringos = Loving Lima

We have reached the last leg of our trip and we are spending it in Lima!  We arrived yesterday morning from Cuzco and took a taxi to our hotel in Miraflores.  I would definitely recommend staying in Miraflores - it is a beautiful location with lots to do!  Our hotel was across the street from Larcomar - this is a mall/food/entertainment complex that is built into the stunning cliffs off of the Pacific Ocean.  The mall is open concept, so you see beautiful views from the various establishments across the complex, including amazing sunsets over the ocean.  You will even catch people surfing the waves!  We walked around the complex and got Imran and nice big Caesar salad (no more CSW for him!) and then we decided to watch a movie...this is what we end up doing at the end of every vacation its seems!  We watched The Hobbit which was in English with Spanish subtitles.  It was great except for the fact that when they were speaking Elfish and Orc we couldn't understand because the subtitles were still in Spanish!  So maybe it was a cultural experience after all ;).  We finished the evening by having some Ceviche which is a Peruvian specialty.  Basically Ceviche is chunks of raw fish with hot chili peppers and onions marinated in lime juice - yummy!

Cliff side in Larcomar

Imran & his salad

2 Locals + 2 Gringos

Today we met up with our awesome friends, Gustavo and Karin who are both locals that were in my class at Ivey.  It was so amazing! They had the whole day planned for us.  We started off by walking around the Miraflores district, then went to Surca and heard all about growing up in Lima, playful battles between different private schools, earthquakes, and other random facts - Gustavo's specialty!  We went to an awesome restaurant called Jose Antonios where we had a lunch buffet - this was a great way to try so many different traditional Peruvian cuisine and of course some Pisco Sours!  Thankfully Karin and Gustavo were able to point us in the right direction on what to try and we absolutely loved the food! My favorite was a dessert that was made of purple corn (Mazamorra Morada), a local specialty. 

Then we hopped on the Mirabus which is basically a double decker bus and a really efficient way to tour the city and get through traffic.  The bus stopped in front of the Pucllana Temple (Huaca Pucllana) which was built in 500 AD and was the site of human sacrifices!  We peered at it from the top of the bus - so random to have ruins the middle of the city!  Then we made our way to downtown Lima where we saw the Government Palace and a variety of other government buildings.  The last Inca chief also lived in this area so it is steeped in history.  You can totally see the Spanish influence here in Lima - the buildings are all colonial style and have baroque influences.

We arrived at the Church of San Francisco which was definitely worth a visit.  This church is again in Baroque Spanish style but with Moorish influences which was really neat to see.   It has a lattice work dome that reminded me of some of the church-mosques in Grenada/Cordoba/Seville.  If you visit, you should definitely stop in and take a look at the amazing library!  Apparently it is one of the oldest in North/South America.  This library was so beautiful - spiral staircases,  skylights, chandeliers, and books that look so old they are about to fall apart.  There was something just so enchanting and forgotten about this library - well worth a visit if you like this type of thing! 

Library in Church of San Francisco

 But the big draw here is really the extensive catacombs that lay under the church.  I have never been in catacombs before so although a bit eerie, it was a very interesting experience.   They say that there are around 75,000 bodies in the catacombs, and only the top level has been excavated.  You walk through the dark narrow stone passage ways and pass exposed remains, often arranged in random patterns.  We saw one hauntingly beautiful well (or pit, really) with concentric patterns of bones and skulls.  It sounds morbid but it was really eerily interesting...definitely not for the claustrophobic or faint at heart!

Catacombs

After that, Karin and Gustavo took us to Barranco which is the Romantic Bohemian district in Lima, with colorful buildings and restaurants and a beautiful view of the ocean.  We passed through the Puente de los Suspiros (the Bridge of Sighs).  Legend says that you are supposed to hold your breath while walking across this bridge and make a wish, and then only exhale once you reach the end of the bridge!  Of course we did just that!  Then we watched yet another beautiful sunset over the Pacific in Barranco, and said goodbye to our last sun in South America. 

A big thanks to Karin and Gustavo for making our stay in Lima so incredible and memorable and for all of your comments and emails!  We definitely enjoyed sharing our trip with you.  Happy 2013 to all!

Puente de los Suspiros

All the colors of Barranco

Beautiful Lima sunsets

Bye bye South America!

Mary Had a Little Llama...

Yesterday we spent the day exploring colorful Cuzco, with a few rest stops along the way to catch our breath (literally...holy altitude!).  The people here are so beautiful - warm caramel skin, rosy cheeks, big smiles and huge hearts.   Example: when our cute old driver picked us up from the Poroy train station, I sat in the back of the car and he turned around and handed me "una rosa for senorita" - a beautiful Peruvian rose he had no doubt picked while waiting for us at the station.  It was such a sweet and unnecessary gesture, and yet it spoke volumes of the kindness and beauty of the Cuzquenos people.

We started the day with breakfast overlooking Plaza de Armas, which is the central square that was once the political center of the Inca Empire.  Plaza de Armas has a number of charming restaurants and shops on two levels around the square, which surround La Catedral.  You will see a few flags waving here - the Peruvian flag as well as a rainbow flag (looks shockingly similar to the pride flag) called the Tahuantinsuyo which represents the four quarters of the Inca Empire.  We then made our way to Mercado San Pedro, which gave us a peak at how the locals carry about their day to day life, selling their wares in booths.  This place had everything from sneakers to Barbie dolls to underwear, all amidst the sale of fruits, herbs, quail eggs, corn and potatoes.  Then we walked to the San Blas area, which is the artisan quarter full of  showrooms of local art, paintings, ceramics, and other crafts.   You will see women walking here in their traditional clothing with llamas, and as our hotel concierge described it, it is "bery nice".  We stopped in at a few cool art galleries to take a look at the local art and it was, in fact, bery nice. 

I really love the feel of this place, and maybe it is just because of the grandeur of the mountains.  I think this is the unifying theme when I look back to the places that I loved best.  Imran thinks I was a Sherpa in my past life and that he probably lived somewhere in a cave.   LOL!

The weather here feels like a typical Calgary spring day in May.  It started off sunny, then it started raining with a sunny sky, then the sky got cloudy and it stopped raining, then it got sunny again and started hailing.  Thankfully our hotel was in a central location so we were able to stop in when the hail started and grab some coca tea.  We have been sipping on coca tea a few times a day here and I think it has really helped with the altitude!  Our hotel has a little coca tea station, with steeped tea as well as leaves that you can chew on if you desire. 

We spent the rest of the day eating a wonderful Peruvian meal and rejuvenating in a ritualistic Andean spa retreat.  Cuzco was truly a great experience and I do wish we had a bit more time to explore the ruins around Cuzco and do a little more exploration of the Sacred Valley.  But alas the time to come home is near - 2 days in Lima and then we are back!

Writing an early morning blog post

Coca tea station in the Lobby

 

San Blas Market

Can you see "Viva el Peru" in the mountain?

Streets of San Blas

Little llama

Going for dinner!

A Very Merry Machu Picchu Christmas!

Machu Picchu was the place I was looking forward to the most, and it truly lived up to expectations!  This ancient city was not revealed to the Spaniards (if it was they would have destroyed it because of pagan sun worship) and was pretty much forgotten until the early part of the 20th century.  Local Quechua people knew about it obviously, but an American historian Hiram Bingham "discovered" this city in  1911 when guided here by locals.  He was looking for the lost city of Vilcabamba which was the last stronghold of the Inca people, and he thought that it was Machu Picchu (Vilcabamba was later found deeper in the jungle).  Bingam's team cleared out the thick forest that was overgrowing and it was then that the ruins were discovered.  If you are interested, his book on  the "discovery" was recorded in the book Inca Land: Explorations in the Highlands of Peru and can be downloaded for free here.  Knowledge of Machu Picchu still remains really random, and most people still speculate what it was used for.  The fact remains though that it is one of the most beautiful archeological sites in the world, and it is truly a breathtaking experience!

Our driver picked us up from the hotel at 5:45AM to take us to Poroy station.  From there, we took a 3 hour train ride through the Sacred Valley of the Incas.  We took the  Vistadome train, which had huge windows all around the coach (including the ceiling) and played traditional Peruvian Buddha Bar type music  - the whole experience made us feel absolutely  immersed in the stunning scenery that was gliding by outside the train.  All around us we saw the lush green Andes with random crystal waterfalls, unforgiving rushing rapids, cows grazing on emerald meadows, and women and men in traditional wear living the simple life, spiraling up hills with mules adorned in colorful cloth transporting bags of grain, lush fruits, and coca plants.  It really makes you question the beauty of a simple life, a life where you turn it down a notch, look inwards, and find peace with yourself and with nature.  But I guess that's the hippie in me talking! 

We finally got to Aguas Calientes, which is the gateway town to Machu Picchu and also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo.  Many people stay here if they want to catch sunrise at Machu Picchu, which I have heard is a fantastic experience.  We chose not to stay there so that we could keep our roots in Cuzco for a few days, but that meant that we had a very, very long travel day yesterday!  Nonetheless, we got there at around 9:45 and met up with our tour group.  Aguas Calientes is a beautiful town because of its scenery, but because so many tourists pass through to get the Machu Picchu, it is dominated by a tourist focus.  Huge repetitive market right when you get off of the train station and pizzerias and restaurants with a set tourist menu are abundant here.   We took a 30 minute winding bus ride to the Machu Picchu main gate. 

A few tips for travellers:

• Take toilet paper and hand sanitizer with you.  It costs 1 sol to use the bathroom but its not in the best shape
• Take sunscreen and Deet with you and apply liberally!
• You must take your original passport to claim train tickets and for entrance to Machu Picchu
• You can check any extra bags you have outside the gate for 5 sol and inside for 3 sol. This comes in handy - we had a pretty sunny day so we checked our jackets and offloaded from our backpack
• Take water and snacks - you cannot buy anything inside Machu Picchu
• If you see a bit of rain, you can buy ponchos in Aguas Caliente or outside for 5 sol (~$2)
• Bring an umbrella.  We had sunny weather with sporadic raindrops so the umbrella came in handy
• Don't forget to stamp your passport with the Machu Picchu stamp!  There is a table just inside the entrance where you can stamp your own passport with the date

We took a guided tour through the grounds and then had a bit of free time to wander.  There are definitely pros and cons to the tour.  On one hand, it was nice to get a description of the significance of various areas inside Machu Picchu, but on the other hand I think I would have liked to explore on my own, get lost in the ruins, and find a quite place to do some yoga!  Needless to say, it was very informative and enriching to learn about the way that the lost city had been organized for different activities, like agriculture, observation of astronomy, and ceremonial sacrifice.  One huge theme, as it is in all old civilizations, is sun worship, and how that ties in with mathematics and astronomy.  For example in the Temple of the Sun, which is the only circular room in the city, the Incas built two windows.  In one window, the angle of the sunrise shines through the window during the Summer Solitce, and in the other window during the Winter Solstice.  It is in this way that the Incas were able to chart out a calendar and observe changes in the seasons for agricultural and ceremonial reasons.  This theme permeates throughout the city, with various locations that use astronomy and sun to symbolize various important days, like the start of the harvest. 

People say this place has a certain energy and you can definitely feel it if you step away from the tourists and really let yourself take in the breathtaking view.  We felt the energy most when we descended down to the flat green area (after seeing the Intihuatana, the "Hitching Post of the Sun") where there is just a sense of quiet that surrounds your body, mind and soul.  It is hard to describe the scene, and the hundreds of years of tradition that are steeped in the stone walls. When we were there, the Andes were bathed in fog which made the scene even more mystical and surreal.  I would be doing it an injustice to try to explain the feeling, so all I have to say is you must experience this once in your life if you can!

Unfortunately we did not have time to take the hour trek up the Sun Gate or the hour trek to go to Wayna Picchu (buy tickets in advance, only 400 allowed per day).  I have heard you get fantastic views from these places.  We headed back to Aguas Caliente for a quick lunch at Cafe Inkaterra.  This is a rustic cafe with a Peruvian fusion spread and beautiful views of the Andes.  It is located just south east of the train station in  the Machu Picchu Peublo hotel.  I would recommend going here if you don't want to grab a pizza or a set tourist menu from the other places in Aguas Calientes.  The place has a chilled out vibe and plays relaxing beats.   

We got home around 9:00PM, ordered room service and relaxed - it was a long and tiring but amazing day!  I am so excited to explore Cuzco today!

Temple of the Sun

Taking it all in

llamas

Qosq'o - The Naval of the World

View from the airplane

The Legends say that a long, long time ago, the sun god Inti created the first Inca, Manco Capac and a wife for him, Mama Ocllo.  They were brought to life in Lake Titicaca on Isla del Sol (Sun Island) and Inti gave Manco Capac a golden rod and told him to find a spot where it would be plunged into the earth until it disappeared - this would become the naval of the Earth (qosq'o in Quecha language).  The place he chose to plunge the golden rod is none other than where we are today, now known as Cuzco. 

Today was our first day in this amazing little place.  We got to Lima last night and spend the night resting and hydrating, preparing our bodies for the altitude in Cuzco (11 000 feet).  We didn't bring any altitude sickness pills, as I wanted to try some natural remedies.  I started a regimen of Gingko Biloba a few days ago, which is supposed to help with altitude adjustment, cognitive function and circulation.  We are drinking lots of water and staying super hydrated, getting lots of sleep, and we have been drinking a lot of Coca Mate tea.  This is a natural tea that is supposed to have many properties that help with the altitude, as well as the benefits listed the teabag in the picture below!  Took a quick dose of Inca Kola - a local soft drink that tastes curiously like Tahiti Treat (remember that drink?!). 

We got to our hotel today and rested for a few hours to acclimatize.  So far so good!  At around 6:00 PM we went to the main square, Plaza De Armas, which had a huge Christmas Eve festivity fair, complete with fireworks and hundreds of booths.  Walking into the plaza was a complete trip - so many people, all  in traditional Peruvian wear, selling trees, rosemary, miniature alpacas, herbs, barbeque meats, and every possible Peruian product you could possibly imagine.  Alpaca sweaters, scarves, hats, magnets, dolls, bracelets, anything your heart desires!   I picked up some fun-a-roosky stuff including a super soft sweater and some magnets for my mom that I think she will LOVE. 

And how can I describe the fragrance of Cuzco? This whole place smells...sacred.    When I was in Grade 9, I took a class on aboriginals called "New Experiences" (go figure...).  The teacher was married to a native so she thought she would start a class about natives.  We made dream catchers, ate bannock, and burned braided strands of "Sweet Grass".   I have no idea what kind of herb this was, but it had the most amazing scent.   I used to burn this sweet grass in my room all summer long and I have never been able to capture the smell anywhere else.  But here in Cuzco, I can smell a mix of woodsy campfire, burning sweet grass, various herbs, and just unidentified sacredness. 

Walking to the square

Christmas Eve Market

Magnets for my Mom

Walking back to our hotel

We leave for Machu Picchu tomorrow morning at 5:45AM. We are so excited!  Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night! 

Buenos Aires: A Smorgasbord of Whimsical Delights

Every day in Buenos Aires has been completely different than the last!  Below are some of the little things that I loved about this city.

Whimsical Delight #1: Tango Tango

This vibrant city pulsates with the sensual beats of tango and the feeling permeates through the cobblestones right through your swaying body.   There are tango performances on the street, at restaurants, and of course all of the tourist geared tango shows in the evening at various venues across the city.  We went to a show at Tango Porteno in the city center, and it was fantastic!  Many companies will try to sell you on transport + show + dinner but I would avoid those package deals and try to do a show only.  We got a show with no dinner/transport which gave us more flexibility to try out an amazing restaurant and then make our way to the 10:00PM show.   The show we watched had beautiful sets, fabulous dancers, and great music.  All in all it was a great experience that was absolutely scintillating to the senses!  A definite must do in BA if you like theatre and dance.

Whimsical Delight #2: Artsy La Boca

La Boca is a eclectic barrio in BA where the buildings are as colorful as a package of skittles and locals display funky art along the street.  Other than the tourist beat, this area is pretty sketch so best not to wander off the beaten path. They say that you are fine as long as you stick to the few colorful blocks that include the Caminito and brick walls peppered with graffiti art.  I loved the vibrancy of this place, especially the pop up hippie fair that was there the day we went. 

Unfortunately Imran came down with a severe case of CSW while we were in La Boca so we weren't able to stay for lunch.  The symptoms started when he saw the random bursts of color and art, combined with the rough around the edges feel of the place.  We left in search of the only thing that could cure him and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the sun at our packed hotel rooftop pool. 

(NB:  CSW =  Caesar Salad Withdrawal)

Whimsical Delight #3: Antiques Fair in San Telmo

Every Sunday, people flock to the cobblestone streets of San Telmo's Plaza Dorrego to find hidden vintage treasures they can call their own.  San Telmo is a barrio with aging mansions, bustling cafes, romantic tango music in the streets, and of course, a good dose of old world charm.  Perfect place to have an antiques fair!  Now how can I explain this beautiful experience?  Anything you could possibly imagine was at this market, including delicate china teacups, antique coins, beautiful crystal, pocket watches, silver candelabras, vintage dresses, random keys, old school glasses frames that would be oh so hipster right now, and jewelry just oozing with history and character! I found myself a very vintage pocket watch on a necklace thingamabob (not sure what else to call this thing!) that I just adore!  The watch looks almost as old as the man who sold it to me.  The old man was my ally in helping me convince Imran that purchasing this thingamabob was a good idea.  When he sensed Imran's hesitation, he proceeded to try to explain all the merits of why the watch was a practical choice, all in Spanish no less.  From what I gathered, he said that the thingamabob is a good choice because it tells real time, you don't need to buy another watch to wear because it is a necklace and a watch all in one, if you are travelling you can change the time at your leisure, you don't have to lift your wrist to your face to look at the time you can just look down at the watch around your neck, and that it needs only winding and no batteries so it will last forever.  Whatever he said, it seemed to work and I left the antiques market extremely happy with a thingamabob  around my neck that I truly believe is steeped in rich Argentinean history! ;)

Now this next bit doesn't really fit in but this wouldn't be my blog if I did not comment on fashion.  I was really surprised that I didn't see any Argentinean fashion trends worth noting.  Patterned leggings are in (but www.lookbook.nu could have told you that).  The only other thing that I noticed was that palazzo pants are back.  Yes, flowerly, patterned pallazzo pants, circa 1993.  So dig deep in those closets ladies! Fashion always comes full circle!

Tonight we leave for Lima where we rest overnight and then head to Cuzco tomorrow afternoon.  Llamas, Alpacas and Machu Picchu here we come!  

Porteno Gastranoma

Peruvian Japanese Fusion Tiraditos 

Of all of the cities in all the countries in all the world, Buenos Aires has by far the best food I have ever tasted.  This place is a foodie's fantasy!  Yesterday we wanted to eat something other than the scrumptious steaks offered all over the city, so we made our way to an amazing restaurant called Osaka.  Osaka is Peruvian/Thai/Japanese fusion and it has the most interesting menu and most amazing seafood that I have ever tasted!  We ordered the Lemon Grass Tiradito (White fish, aji amarillo and lemon grass aroma), Carpassion Tiradito (Passion fruit honey and lemon. Served with watercress), and Tai Ebi (Prawns in watercress and red curry sauce served with tempura and fresh watercress) to name a few of the dishes.  This place would do so well in NYC or TO -- currently their only locations are in Lima, Santiago, Sao Paulo and Mexico.  If you are visiting BA, make the trek to Osaka!  Their first dinner sitting is at 8:00 PM, and they have locations in Puerto Madero (not on the main docklands) and in Palermo (a bit away from the main square). 

Some other places that we tried here that I would highly recommend are:

• La Cabrera (Palermo): Huge portions, amazing food, and your meal comes with a selection of random yumminess like sundried tomatoes and other antipasto like offerings.  After you are done your meal, they bring a lollipop stand to your table!  This place gets really full so expect a bit of a wait, but there is a lot around there to see and do as you wait for your table!  We hopped to the nearby Plaza and listened to some live music while people watching.
• Cabana Las Islas (Puerto Madero): Wooden rustic decor, great patio with misters to beat the heat, and amazing service. The food was fantastic.  They charge a 39 peso cover charge but that includes a variety of offerings that can best be described as Argentinian Antipasto.  For example: olives & eggplant tapenade, cheeses, a piece of sesame seed salmon, selection of yummy artisan breads, grilled tomatoes with boccacini, and  roasted red peppers.
• Happening (Puerto Madero): Amazing steak and seafood with romantic ambiance.  Inside the restaurant is an antipasto type buffet where you can get a plate and load it up with different cheeses, meats, olives, avacado and tomato, and anything else your heart desires.  

Don't Cry for Me Argentina!

Famous words by passionate Evita Peron, whose tomb we stumbled upon while exploring sarcophagi at La Recoleta Cemetery in the upper crust Recoleta Barrio in Buenos Aires.  This was an experience not to be missed - Recoleta Cemetary is a final resting place for Argentina's elite, and can best be described as a maze of beautiful marble mausoleums in a variety of architectural styles (Baroque, Art Deco, Gothic).  It was an eerie feeling reminiscent of watching Double Jeopardy, but it was so morbidly fascinating to walk around and peek in through the various tombs and soak in the history.

We stopped in the Museo Nacional de las Bellas Artes which hosts a collection of art from around the world, including Argentinian art and impressionist art (my favorite).  After wandering through the cemetery, we made our way to Av. Alvear which has a number of high end stores.  We walked all the way to Av. Florida, which is the main pedestrian shopping area.  It was just packed with tourists and bustling with the Christmas rush. When you are here, stop in Galleria Pacifico - a very nice mall with great stores. Estee Lauder has clearly penetrated here as I saw a La Mer store, a Bobbi Brown store, and a MAC store!  As we were walking, we spotted a random tango performance in the street - these performances pop up sporadically everywhere! 

Buenos Aires has much more of a European flair than Rio, and seems to have a higher degree of penetration by large commercial chains.  As we were walking around the city, it was hard not to notice similarities between 5th Ave in New York and the streets of Buenos Aires. The biggest difference that we notice here versus Rio is the number of young people!  There are young people everywhere, all the time!  

Another BA idiosyncrasy is that things get started quite late.  It is not uncommon for people to have dinner at 11:00...in fact, thats the time we have been eating dinners every night here! Last night we ventured to Palermo which is a hip area with funky shops and great night life.  We stopped off in a random cafe iin Plaza Cortazar with live music and then went to an amazing restaurant call La Cabrera - would highly recommend it.  Amazing food! We finished dinner at 2:00 AM and woke up this morning still full!  We were trying to go to a place by our hotel in Puerto Madero called Asia da Cuba which is supposed to be a super fun place (but doesn't get started until 2:00 AM) but we were just tooo tired!  Who knows, maybe tonight!  Today we are venturing to a few different barrios - San Telmo and La Boca.  Can't wait!  Lots of love from Boo en Os - Eye Reez!